Arthurs Pass

Leaving Greymouth, our next stop was Diamond Harbour, about 45 minutes from Christchurch on the other side of Lyttelton Harbour. Our route took us through Arthurs Pass, that according to our friend Sarah, is one of the must see places in New Zealand. Sarah was right! To get across the South Island (or the Mainland as I have been informed more than once), you need to cross the Southern Alps and Arthurs Pass is the most scenic and the most popular. As you wind up into the mountains, the scenery turns from the lush growth of the lowland to a more alpine climate. The first major stop on the way was the Otira Viaduct. Completed in 1999, the road passes through an avalanche tunnel (similar to the those in BC), and the 4 span viaduct crosses the valley, replacing a winding, dangerous road that was prone to closures from avalanches and slips. Quite an impressive feat of engineering in a remote area.

The highway continues winding up the mountain until you reach the village of Arthur’s Pass. There’s lots to do in the area, from short hikes to major treks. It’s a popular stopping point and we decided to head up to the Devils Punchbowl falls for a nice hike. Lots of steps and uphill about 150 meters vertical over a kilometer. The NZ Department of Conservation (DOC) has done a lot of work building steps to make the trail a bit more accessible. It was definitely worth the climb. The falls are beautiful and drop 130 meters into the “punchbowl” before flowing down the mountain.

We stopped for a coffee and a muffin before leaving Arthurs Pass and managed to fend off one of the local Kea’s who love to steal the food off you plate. They are the only species of alpine parrot and very intelligent, mischievous, and totally unafraid off humans. They are omnivores and until 1971 there was a bounty on them in NZ as they attacked sheep. They finally became a protected species in 1986 and are still listed as endangered.

We saved our muffins from the Kea’s, had our coffee and headed off for our next stop at Castle Rocks in the Kura Tawhiti Conservation Area. The rock formations are limestone blocks that have been eroded by water where over eons. The area holds special significance for the Ngai Tahu that stretches back generations to present day.

When we got our next AirBnB in Diamond Harbour (The Crows Nest) we were greeted by Angus a young 40kg lab/boxer cross that is very friendly and exuberant. Our hosts Rosie and Iain met us outside before moved in for the week. The place is a larger version of where we stayed in Greymouth and was moved onto their property for Rosie’s mother to live before she passed a couple of years ago. It’s open, well equipped including a washing machine and is very comfortable We look out over boats at anchor in Purau Bay and can watch ships passing on their way in and out of Lytteton Harbour. Now that we are on the east coast of NZ, we are back on the Pacific Ocean. Lots of trails around here but the weather forecast is not great but it is what it is. There’s a ferry to Lyttelton a short walk from here and we’ll use that to cross the harbour on Saturday for the market. It’s 13 minute ferry trip or a 45 minute drive!